There was a time when skincare meant taking care of your skin with a single goal in mind: to better its health. Then, skincare became elevated in the public consciousness to a form of self-care. In recent years, however, the concept of skincare itself has inconspicuously taken a darker, more obsessive turn—far, far from the safe space it was meant to be. Blame it on the influential world of social media (read: self-proclaimed experts and unattainable skin filters) or the rise of skincare products and treatments (along with new insecurities), striving for unattainable perfection has pulled the focus away from skin health. The proof lies in Sephora kids and the pillowface selfies we keep encountering. While skincare is great, this obsession, on the other hand, isn’t and can lead to several body image and mental health issues now termed ‘dermorexia’.
Dermorexia In Detail
“A set of obsessive behaviours towards skincare, enabled and encouraged by the skincare industry’” is how beauty journalist Jessica DeFino described dermorexia when she coined the word. While not an actual medical diagnosis, dermorexia can be defined as a pathological obsession, just like anorexia… in this case, with the skin and its appearance. “We would describe it as an unhealthy preoccupation and obsession regarding skin and its imperfections—with the focus on skincare and removing those imperfections through various means,” explains psychologist and published researcher, Tanya Vasunia. In extreme cases, it could be classified as harmful.
According to the expert, dermorexia is a niche subset of body dysmorphic disorders. “To put it into perspective—0.7 to 2.4 per cent of India’s population struggles with body dysmorphic disorder, which amounts to over 10 million people,” she says. “Through broad estimations, we’re looking at at least half, if not more, who struggle with dermorexia or are hyper-focused on their skin to a point that is detrimental to their mental health.” The expert, however, believes that as opposed to other facets of body dysmorphia, the concerns surrounding skin are often normalised by society to a certain extent, and therefore where it verges on an actual concern can become trickier to identify.
An Unhealthy Fixation
Dermorexia is about fixating on perfection. But, it is also about obsessing over imperfections, even when there are none. According to cosmetic dermatologist and founder of Skinfinitii Aesthetic Skin and Laser Clinic, Dr Jaishree Sharad, the condition can manifest itself through various ways physically harmful behaviours such as checking out your skin excessively in the mirror, switching skincare products frequently, opting for a multitude of treatments, skin picking, and of course emotional distress.
“One patient thought she had stubborn acne, but it was actually because she was using too many acids and retinoids,” says Sharad. “I had a patient obsessed with checking his pores and applying harsh treatments all day. He was worried about his skin, but it was just because he had unrealistic expectations.”
Often driven by irrational beauty standards, social media influence, and aggressive skincare marketing, this idea of “flawless skin” triggers unnecessary anxiety over normal imperfections. “Social media sells very well,” says Dr Kiran Sethi, MD and founder, ISYA Aesthetics. “It knows how to harness brain chemistry, target people, and scare them into being worried about it.” Take the glass skin trend, for example. The poreless and radiant skin often comes wrapped under layers of makeup and filters on social media. This makes it an attainable standard of beauty to achieve.
She believes that dermorexia also stems from control in a way that prevents something from occurring in the future. This reinforces the use of anti-ageing products and preventative invasive treatments at a very young age. That’s how Sephora Kids were born! But, can this be counterintuitive to skin health too? The answer is yes!
“The overconsumption of skincare, fuelled by the belief that more products lead to better skin often results in irritation and damage, rather than improvement,” says Sharad. The result? A severely compromised skin barrier, with a side of low self-esteem, distorted sense of self, anxiety, and much more. “I want people to be aware of when their skincare is causing more stress than it’s worth.”
The Mental Impact
Dermorexia isn’t just about the skin — it’s a mental health issue. Other than fuelling anxiety, low self-esteem, and obsessive behaviours, this condition, if not treated properly, can hinder quality of life and can even interfere with other diagnoses. For example, it can exacerbate symptoms of anxiety, depression, eating disorders, or OCD, as they can feed into each other.
“Unfortunately, on its own, dermorexia has the same symptoms, so when not treated properly, they can escalate,” says Vasunia. “This ends up with people socially withdrawing, struggling with shame and guilt, as well as poor self-esteem.” Additionally, if you are predisposed to more severe mental health issues like bipolar disorder or schizophrenia when you have dermorexia, it can trigger psychotic episodes related to those conditions.
Course Of Treatment
Combating the condition requires a combined two-pronged approach — one for your mental health and the other for your skin’s wellbeing. As dermorexia manifests itself as body dysmorphia, Vasunia states that identifying the signs first is a very big step. “Perhaps you’re overly preoccupied with your skin, find yourself socially withdrawn if your skin is not in perfect condition, or have ruminating thoughts surrounding your skin and how it looks. The first course of action is to see a therapist and let them assess you,” she advises. Other than that, keeping away from social media, limiting your digital time, or even changing up your algorithm to serve you better mentally will help with mental health.
Make sure to consult with a dermatologist who will help you pare down your skincare routine and offer advice that supports your skin’s overall health. “Shift focus from perfection to skin health,” says Dr Sharad. “The best way forward is by applying a balanced approach. It isn’t about flawlessness; it’s about maintaining a routine that supports your natural skin without stress or overconsumption.”
Images: Pexels
